After rising up from the desert heat that surrounds it, riding through the high country of the Southern Sierra Nevada Mountains is simply stunning. With thick groves of ponderosa and sequoia trees, there are times when you feel like you are riding a speeder bike on Endor, except that the little people wearing Ewok suits are replaced by real-life bears.

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While the prospect of running across an ornery bear on the trail is a little unsettling, there is also something deeply satisfying about getting out into areas where you are not the top predator. I suppose it’s an integral part of “forest therapy.”

In late July, a riding buddy and I spent a weekend exploring some trails in the Southern Sierras, ranging from technical downhills with log rides and other features, to smooth alpine singletrack. We camped under the stars, and took showers under a freezing high-mountain waterfall. We also donated at least a pint of blood to the local mosquitoes, all of which must have been imported from Alaska. Good stuff.

On our last ride of the weekend, my riding buddy was dreading the climb back up to the car on his single speed, and turned back before the trail finish to get an early start. As it was getting toward sunset and I found myself doing a large part of the climb back by myself, the thought occurred to me that riding alone on the trail through bear country at this time of day might not be the best idea.

Continuing my solo climb, my mind started playing tricks on me as various shadows and hunks of wood took the shape of bears lying in wait. After about an hour of climbing, I finally caught up to and passed my buddy, grumbling something about it not being a good idea to ride alone.

IMG_2135Bear cave-womb? I think Georgia O’Keefe would have liked it.

About half a mile later, the trail overlooked a meadow and I stopped to stare at two curious shapes that looked like bears. As I looked more carefully, it turns out they weren’t bears at all, but just pieces rotting wood. Just as I was laughing at my bear paranoia,  a real life bear sitting not too far away from the two hunks of wood sprinted away across the meadow. I didn’t get my camera out in time. Feeling vindicated for my bear paranoia at least, we continued, hoping not to get a closer look at any bears.

About five minutes later, however, we both approached another meadow and spotted two more bears! This time I was able to get the camera out and take a photos before the bears sprinted off. Glad they were as scared of us as we of them. Either that, or the they were satiated because they had already eaten Goldilocks. There are actually two of them in this picture:

bear 2Checking out the bikers.

Three Bears stories aside, here’s a few other photos we took in the course of the weekend:

IMG_2071Railing a banked turn on Just Outstanding.

barcy 5Overlooking Isabella Lake. Photo by Barcy.

IMG_2108One of the most photographed Sequoias ever?

barcy 3One of several log crossings. This one at least had a rope to help with balance.

IMG_2133Barcy was rocking the log rides! I wasn’t.

barcy 6They might be giants. Photo by Barcy

IMG_2120Lovely alpine meadow. Beware the bears though.

IMG_2106Sometimes Barcy’s awesome speed cannot be captured by the camera.

barcy 9This particular trail sucked.  Luckily, the views didn’t. Photo by Barcy.

barcy 4Nice cycling tan! The waterfall shower was definitely a highlight of the trip.  Photo by Barcy.

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Full photo set can be found here.

With around 7000 feet of climbing in only 55 miles, this was brutal. I had a flat, I bonked, ran out of water, and then had to push my bike for a half mile while trying to recover. Good times!

Route starts in Pine Valley, CA. After a brief stint on old Highway 80, you start the long climb up Kitchen Creek, which takes you up to the top of the Laguna Mountains, where you turn left and make a screaming descent back into Pine Valley.  Second loop gets tougher.  Starting in Pine Valley, make your way west to the dreaded Pine Creek Road, where you do a brutal climb (with grades over 20%) to the top of the Laguna Mountains, then a second screaming descent into Pine Valley. If you know the Mount Laguna Bicycle Classic that Adventure Corps puts on, this is basically laps two and three of that event.

Remind me not to do this one again until winter!

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two creeks map

Located in the San Bernadino mountains east of LA, the Santa Ana River Trail (SART) offers some of the best singletrack in all of Southern California. This isn’t the place to come if you get bored when there’s nothing to huck and no chunk to ride. But if you like miles and miles of flowing, swoopy, singletrack goodness, this is your place.

Cut into a steep cliffside, SART also gives you a chance to come to terms with your feelings about exposure. That is, riding a narrow trial with a mountain on one side and a cliff or steep slope on the other. While the pucker factor isn’t nearly that of sections of the Palm Canyon Epic or Carrizo Gorge, the exposed nature of the trail nearly took out several of my buddies when we hit the trail in late June.

Nice backdrop as the group prepares to drop in. The first 4 miles or so of the trail are some of the best. You do have to pay the piper at the end of the ride for all of this elevation loss at the beginning:

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We were all feeling the flow, and getting acclimated to the altitude and exposure when a pile of logs came loose from up the mountain and came crashing over the trail right in between the two lead riders. It’s hard to convey how dramatic this was. Imagine a crafty beaver pulling the pin on his dam and a river of logs cascading over the trail right in front of you:

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I guess if something like that takes you out, you have to figure it was just your time to go. A bit like getting struck by lightning. Thanks to Jose/Baja’s leadership, we all cleared the trail to make sure it wouldn’t trip up any bikers after us:

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After the initial miles of flowing descent, we came to a fire road and were presented with an option. Either ride up one of the steeper and more exposed sections of trail, or take the fire road to skip this 1-2 mile section. I had an uneasy feeling about it, and decided to skip it, as did most of the crew. Christian and Jose decided to ride it. As we waited and waited on the other side for them, wondering what could be taking so long, two riders came though and told us that one of our friends had fallen down the side of the trail.

We later learned that Jose’s bars hit a root on one of the narrower sections of trail, knocking him over a 15 foot cliff where he then rolled and tumbled 200 feet or do down and extremely steep slope. He had scratches and blood just about everywhere, but luckily that was about it. This had to be one of the more dramatic crashes since the famous Miles Todd crash at Carrizo Gorge.  The “funny” thing is, one year ago, Jose took a less dramatic spill down SART’s steep slope. When he came to, he looked down to see a scorpion on his body! No scorpion this time, but the crash was a lot scarier.

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Since Jose had at least 7 of his 9 lives left, we decided to soldier on, crossing streams here and there.

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This allowed Jose to dive in and wash off all the blood!

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At a campground at mile 17, we had lunch and prepared for our return trip on this out-and-back trail. Something about the cliff being on your right hand side for the return makes the trail seem totally different, almost like it’s not an out-and-back at all. We made a lot better time, and luckily had no accidents!

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About this time, my camera battery died, so that’s the end of the riding pictures.  We finished up with a post-ride meal at a Mexican/Yucatan restaurant in Mentone. Postiively non-Paleo, but it was delicious:

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I’ll definitely be back again. With views like this, how could I resist:

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The forecast could not have been better when a small group of us hit the trail at a little after 7:30: perfectly clear skies, temps in the high 70s, and over 36 miles and 5500 feet of climbing ahead of us. The ride began with a brisk climb up East Mesa Fire Road, but soon leveled out and narrowed to to a small ribbon of singletrack cutting through the grasslands of Cuyamaca Ranchero State Park.

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It didn’t take long for the work to begin as we hit the Indian Creek single track:

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Indian Creek would be steep enough even if it were buff as a baby’s bottom, but it’s the loose rocks that really give your heart a good workout:

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Who put those there?

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You can get a sense of the rapid ascent from this pic:

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The climbing isn’t for nothing though, as you are rewarded with some nice views:

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(That’s Anza-Borrego desert back there).

After some fantastic stretches of singletrack and a little paved road, we refilled our water tanks at Penny Pines and hit the Noble Canyon trailhead:

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If sections of Hurkey Creek were made when God came down out of the clouds and laid down a ribbon of singletrack, sections of this trail must have been excreted out of one of the Devil’s orifices. With sections named “widow maker,” “stairway to hell,” and “whore” this isn’t usually the kind of stuff this buff single track lovin’ boy would be riding. But the really chunky sections can easily be walked by wimps like me, and the rest of the trail is just an all-out blast to ride.

The trail starts out smooth and fast. There were even a couple of guys riding it on unicycles!

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But if riding chunk is your thing, Noble does not disappoint:

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That’s Barcy givin’ the stairway to hell some hell.

Sometimes I feel like a wuss for walking the chunkier sections, but riding chunk does come with a few risks. At one point, Rob was balanced in a trackstand over a challenging uphill section. When he stuck out his left foot to catch himself, there was no ground there to catch him since the trail is exposed and he fell down the cliff about 15 feet, ass over teakettle, onto some rocks. Amazingly, he only had a minor scrape and a jammed finger. I think he lost one of his nine lives though! Here’s the crew helping to get his bike back to the trail:

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Unfortunately, what goes down then needs to climb back up. After finishing Noble, we needed to climb the dreaded Pine Creek Road, which is 6 miles of 10-20% grades. I was actually not feeling too bad on this climb today, but before I pat myself on the back, consider that Barcy, pictured in the distance here, is climbing the entire thing on a single speed! He made good use of the traverse climbing technique.

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It helps when in pain to contemplate the little details:

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All in all, it took over 7 hrs to do the whole loop, though we had plenty of stop time and we were definitely in no hurry. Thankfully, Phil had the foresight to have some beer waiting in a cooler when we got back to the cars. It’s a terrific recovery beverage, which I drink solely to replenish depleted glycogen sores, mind you.

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See the full photo set here.

Maps and stats for the day:

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If god came down out of the clouds and laid down a ribbon of single track in the high mountain desert, it would probably look a lot like the trails you can find at Hurkey Creek/Idyllwild. Located in the San Jacinto mountains about two hours north-east of San Diego, the area is a mecca for mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing, and horseback riding.


View Larger Map

Sometimes it’s hard to justify driving 4 hours for a day of biking–something I don’t do too often–but in the case of Hurkey Creek, I’ve always felt like it was worth it. It’s about the best way to take a “mental health day” that I know of. 24 miles of single track and 5+ hours of riding later, and your head feels a lot clearer.

I recently made the drive with two friends, Christian and Dennis, thinking we’d get out of the coastal fog that’s been so thick in San Diego this week. No such luck, as it took until a little after noon for the fog to burn off even this far inland. The good news is that it kept things cool, with morning temps just a little over 50 degrees. It was in the mid 70s by the time we finished in all the glorious southern California sunshine.

Christian and Dennis start the ride through the fog, like two gorillas in the mist:

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While I was huffing and puffing in my granny gear on the first climbs of the morning, Christian did the entire ride on a single speed. The guy has a diesel engine!

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While Hurkey Creek is mostly buff, flowy single track, there are a number of fun rock features you need to ride up, over, and squeeze through:

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Dustin flow

The rocks are fun, but it’s the flow at Hurkey that keeps me coming back:

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dustin rock

And the scenery isn’t too bad either!

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The final section of single track awaits, “rage through the sage,” before we return to the campground located in the pine trees below:

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Here’s a map of the day’s route:

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The full photo set can be viewed here.

The Carrizo Gorge wilderness area contains some of the most striking desert views you’ll see anywhere. Located in the extreme southeast of San Diego county, it borders on Anza-Borrego state park.

One of the best ways to view this area is by riding along side (and occasionally on top of) an old railway line. The railway line has a long and storied history. It was a nightmare to construct, and various owners have had an impossible time making any money on it ever since.

Anyone thinking about doing this ride should be aware that its legality is at best questionable. There have been groups of riders given trespassing citations. Others have been told by railway employees to go ahead and enjoy the ride. At present, the trains are not running as there is too much work that needs to be done on the tracks to make it safe.

The ride is also the site of the famous “penalty for failure” incident:

It’s hard not to think of that video when you ride Carrizo Gorge, but you don’t actually have to ride the section of trail where the crash took place unless you want to.

Besides the stunning desert scenery, Carrizo Gorge is famous for its wooden trestle bridges, and you don’t go far before having to ride across them. Here’s my riding buddy crossing one of the first ones:

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The other distinguishing feature of this ride is the number of tunnels you ride through. Some of them are long enough that you have to take lights on the ride. It’s pitch black in the middle of some of them. Here’s one of the first and shorter ones:

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Along the way you see a number of abandoned railway cars:

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The route continues, and gets progressively more dramatic as you go on:

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That’s a tunnel entrance you can see way in the distance:

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Finally you come to the most famous trestle, the largest wooden trestle in the world:

goat trestle

We decided to turn back at this point. On the way back, a few of my riding buddies decided to ride the famous Miles Todd crash trail (see video above). It’s basically a bypass to one of the longer tunnels. I decided not to ride it as I don’t like trails with lots of exposure, and it’s hard to get that crash video out of your head!

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All in all, Carrizo Gorge is an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime type of ride. That said, I won’t be riding it often since I’m not keen on possibly getting a ticket from the railroad or, worse, getting my bike seized.

If you feel like relaxing after the ride, you can always visit the nudist colony one the way out!

nudist colony

One of my goals this year had been to earn the California triple crown by riding three double centuries. But after I tweaked tweaked my knee and managed to create a few other soft tissue issues by training for and completing my first double of the year in February of this year, I pulled way back on the mileage.

Since then, I’ve pretty much stuck to riding 2-4 hour rides and have done a lot more cross-training. Seems to be working, more or less, as long as I don’t try to get too heroic with the mileage.

So it was with a bit of hesitation than I decided to ride the San Diego Randonneurs Kitchen Creek Brevet this last Saturday with my friends Esteban, Aaron, and Joe. At 200 kilometers and 11,000 feet of climbing, maybe this ride wasn’t exactly what most people would call knee-rehab friendly! But I figured there were a few good bail-out options, so if my knee and other issues started to flare up, I could always call it a day.

The other thing that made this ride hard to resist is that I know from experience that the whole route is just stunning, winding over low-traffic country roads that take you through a number of different ecosystems, from desert chaparral to pine forest.

Foolish decision perhaps, but sometimes you gotta heed the call of the open road:

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Esteban in full aero tuck:

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Me and Aaron riding, photo by Esteban:

open road

At the checkpoint about 55 miles in, we were feeling high energy. My knee was doing OK, even if my left calf kept threatening to cramp up. I had ideas that I might even finish the entire 200K rather than bail out early. So it was a bit sobering to look at my Garmin and realize that 55 miles in we had actually descended slightly more than we had climbed!

That was about to change.

Kitchen Creek road is an epic piece of narrow mountain road beauty. If you close your eyes and wear enough Rapha, it’s almost like a mountain pass in Europe. Call it the Col du Ruisseau Cuisinier. In 14 miles, it climbs unrelentingly from the desert up to the pines at grades of 5-12% (and even steeper in a few short pitches). It starts as a two-lane road:

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But after a few miles and a gate that prevents car traffic for a good section of the road, it narrows quite a bit:

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Kitchen Creek is a challenging climb in the best of times, but this one was especially tough due to high temperatures. I think the ambient air was only high 80s or so, but the heat radiating off the pavement can create a heat index that is much higher. My Garmin was claiming 104 degrees, and it felt like it:

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Looking back down after the initial part of the climb:

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Suffering as I was, I did stop a few times to smell the flowers:

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As we neared the top after a good 1.5 hours of climbing, we finally hit pine trees. They don’t look like much, but the smell and cooler air above 5000 feet was very welcome.

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mt laguna

Once we finally got to the checkpoint at mile 70 near the Mount Laguna summit, I was feeling pretty cooked. The knee was doing OK to so-so, but I didn’t want to push it, and my left calf was still feeling crampy. Since the car was only 10 miles away, all down hill, and completing the ride would involve anther 50 miles and 5000 feet of climbing, it wasn’t a tough decision to call it a day. The fun had gone out of it, and I didn’t want to risk injury after not having done a long ride in 3 months.

With the heat and cramping issues faced by others, I was in good company: Joe, Esteban, and Aaron decided to pull the plug too. Aaron probably coulda and woulda finished (he is wearing Rapha after all), but decided to show solidarity with the rest of us:

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The payoff for the Kitchen Creek inferno was a screaming 10-mile descent back into Pine Valley that at least allowed all of us to finish the ride with a little adrenaline rush and a smile. The view from Esteban’s cockpit on the descent:

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Coming down, I had a number of bugs splatter on the windshield of my glasses:

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That, my friend, is why we wear eye protection. Nothing like bug guts on your eyeball!

In hindsight, perhaps this isn’t the ideal time of year to do this particular 200K with the possibility of heat that exists inland. But go too much earlier, and you risk not being able to climb Kitchen Creek due to snow. I found this out the hard way in February of this year when we pushed our bikes through 2 miles snow near the top, feet frozen into numb, wet bricks for the ride down. High times:

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All in all, it was good to get out, the company was superb, and I’m glad a did it. But I think I’ll be putting my long-distance “career” on hold for a good number of months yet. That’s OK, as the 3-4 hour mountain bike rides are a lot of fun, and the hiking, core work, and other aspects of cross training aren’t too bad either.

Full photo set here. You can read Esteban’s ride report on his blog here and see his full photo set here.

In other posts, I’ve alluded to the quality/intensity v. quantity of training debate. As an attempt to introduce a little more intensity into my riding this summer, I’ve been forgoing my bike commute to work from time to time, and throwing the mountain bike in the back of the car for an after work ass kicker known as Cowles Mountain.

At 1592 feet, Cowles Mountain is the highest point within the city of San Diego. There are a couple of options, but the trail I typically take to the summit climbs 1200 feet in just two and a quarter miles. Try this one when you’re too out of shape, and you’ll feel as delirious as Hunter S. Thompson on a Las Vegas bender.

You can see the radio towers up top–your destination–as you arrive at the trail head:

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The trail is unrelentingly steep right out of the parking lot, and would be a serious cardio challenge even if it were smooth as glass. But what makes it especially draining are the endless water bars, each of which requires an extra burst of energy to clean. They don’t look like much, but when your heart rate is at 95% of max and you’re rolling at 4 mph, they can be challenging enough. Especially after several dozen of them:

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Rocks, and rocks mixed with waterbars don’t make it any easier:

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At about the half way point, you exit the single track and get a view of the fire road that takes you to the summit. It winds up the mountain at grades well north of 23%.

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I had to push my bike the last 700 feet as I just plain ran out of juice. I hope to make it all the way to the top without any hike a bike some day soon.

The view from the top can be terrific, but a lot depends on how hazy it happens to be. Today was one of the hazier days. Looking back down the fire road I just climbed:

down fire road

Downtown San Diego in the purple hazy distance:

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And the obligatory bike pic at the summit. This would be a good trail for a nice 20lb cross country rig, but the 30lb Pivot does just fine, especially on the way down!

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For those of us lucky enough to own multiple bikes, one school of thought says that you should pick the right tool for the job.  If the route involves rough dirt, go with a “mountain bike.”  If it’s smooth road, go with a “road bike.” Horses for courses.

While this approach makes a lot of sense, sometimes there is a lot to be said for picking the wrong tool for the job. Not only are many “road bikes” capable of doing a lot more than we give them credit for, it can be a lot of fun to take a skinny tired bike off road. It makes tame trails challenging again.

Other times, there is no right tool for the job to begin with. Mixed surface routes can require riding over paved road, dirt road, fire road, and trail–all on the same bike. Fat knobbies will slow you on the paved sections, but skinny road tires will be a bit jarring off road. It’s all about compromise.

Some people trying to popularize this style of riding call it “under biking.” Others call it “Rough Riding.” The rest of us just call it plain fun.

On May 1, I led a group determined to show its solidarity by engaging in 42 miles and 5600 vertical feet of mixed surface heaven about an hour east of San Diego.  The ride began in the small hamlet of Descanso, CA and did a loop around Cuyamaca Peak.  The mixed surface route combined a bit of everything from pavement to singletrack.

The ride begins on the pavement of Boulder Creek Road, which soon turns to dirt. You can see the ribbon of road we followed carved into the hillside:

Up Boulder Creek

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At the top of the pass, we stopped for a short break.

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And looked back at how far we had just come:
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The rolling dirt road has a series of great climbs and descents, forcing you to dump all the elevation you just gained before working hard to earn it back. At the bottom of the one of the steepest elevation dumps, there is a great stream crossing. This is a lot of water to see in this parched region of the planet:

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The climbing continued, with Sky of Velo Cult bike shop and Chris Kostman of Adventure Corps & Rough Riders fame leading the charge:

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At the top of Boulder Creek Road, we settled for a bit under the shade of a huge tree while waiting for some of the slower climbers. This gave plenty of time for glamor shots of all the different bikes being used on the course. Everything from a Rivendell Roadeo with 33mm Jack Brown tires, to a single speed 29er mountain bike with 2.5″ tires. You run what you brung. That’s the spirit of rough riding!

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After a steep paved climb up Engineers Road, we made it to Lake Cuyamaca and the small general store there. In this picture, I’m chugging a positively non-Paleo Red Bull energy drink.

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As we turned south for the second half of the ride, the route got a lot rougher, involving the Cuyamaca fire roads. There was a huge fire some years back in the park, and every time it rains you get a lot of dead fall across the trails due to the rotting burnt out husks of trees. This was a good chance to practice our cyclocross skills:

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As the ride neared its end, we hit some fabulous stretches of single track, before a final series of fire road climbs. We were all getting pretty tired. Here’s a pic of Sky cresting one of the final fireroad climbs on his Nobilette:

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All in all, it was a glorious day in the sun. I can’t recommend this loop or this style of riding highly enough.

Here are the Garmin stats and map.

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